Table saw missing riving knife/blade guard (2024)

FAQs

When must the blade guard be removed before operating a saw? ›

Leave safety devices in place and intact on the saw. Never remove, modify, or defeat guards. Keep your free hand away from the blade (Figure 38-1). Whenever possible, select the lightest tool or the tool with the least vibration.

What are the benefits and drawbacks of having a blade guard on a table saw? They make sure you can't accidentally touch or drop anything onto the blade. The ones with anti-kickback pawls also reduce the chance of something being thrown back even if it gets trapped between the blade and fence.

The top guard should be adjusted to cover the gullet off the blade tooth to prevent the ejection of splinters. When a fence is used it should be positioned with no more than an 18mm overlap of the blade to reduce the risk of ejection.

Most new table saws are supplied with blade guards designed to prevent the operator's hands from accidentally making contact with the blade. But in many cases, blade guards are missing or have been removed (for example, when a table saw is purchased second-hand). This puts operators at risk of serious injury.

Belt-driven saws with exposed belts and pulleys should be guarded with a sturdy cover over the belts and pulleys. OSHA has specific rules for table saw guarding that are described in 29CFR1910. 213 and 1926.304. In general, blade guards are required on table saws whenever ripping or cross-cutting is done.

Make sure all band wheels are enclosed. Make sure the wheels and blade are in good condition. Make sure the blade is positioned properly on the track. Adjust blade guard height to about 3 mm or 1/8 inch to 6mm or 1/4 inch above the top of the material being cut.

Appropriate guards must be in place at all times. Never remove the guard. Ask one of the shop personnel for help if you think the guard is in the way. If the piece of material you are cutting is large, get someone to assist in tailing-off for you.

A blade guard is a safety feature on band saws designed to cover the exposed portions of the blade when not in use or during cutting, protecting the operator from accidental contact with the sharp, moving blade. Blade guards also help to contain dust and debris generated during cutting.

Simply put, the guard is there to protect you from contact with the saw blade. The rim speed of a 10˝ circular saw blade is approximately 225 km/h. The saw blade does not differentiate between you and the stock. It only takes a split second to amputate your fingers.

The standard table saw guard is comprised of three parts: a splitter or riving knife, anti-kickback pawls, and a shield or barrier guard.

How high should the blade guard have been set? ›

Being new to woodworking, I've read books, watched videos and received advice from experienced woodworkers and have received the same answer: “blade should be no more than 1/4 inch above workpiece and fence and blade set at 90 degrees.

The Manufacturers Recommendation

That is generally going to be around 1/8” above the top of the workpiece. Blade manufacturer Freud recommends that you have ½ of one tooth above the wood. Taking their recommendation, you will have 3-5 teeth into the wood when ripping, and 5-7 teeth into the wood when crosscutting.

In summary, a good splitter or riving knife should be just a bit thinner than the thickness of your blade kerf. Safety should be easy and trying to use a splitter that is too thick is a step in the wrong direction.

Never defeat the guard to expose the blade. For example, tying back or removing the guard. Before starting a circular saw, be sure the power cord and extension cord are out of the blade path and are sufficiently long to freely complete the cut.

BLADE GUARDS AND ANTI-KICKBACK PAWLS

They also keep your fingers from getting pushed into the blade — a common kickback-related injury. You've probably also seen the anti-kickback pawls that attach to your blade guard or riving knife.

A Woodworker's Notebook: Crown Guards. Guards are principally regarded as being simply for the protection of the sawyer's hands, but they also prevent material, including knot fragments and even broken saw teeth from being thrown towards his/her face.

The “off-bearer” is only there to support the stock and should not pull stock through the blade. Keep hands at a safe distance on either side of the stock being machined. Use a push stick or board to push small or irregularly sized pieces of stock or for narrow cuts.